GaHee LiM

PARSONS SCHOOL OF DESIGN

MFA FASHION DESIGN AND SOCIETY/BFA FASHION DESIGN

MoKUBa PRoJeCT

PRESSED FLOWER SOUVENIR

Pressed Flower Souvenir is a experimental collection inspired by the designer’s childhood memory of her father which was symbolized by pressed Edelweiss flower in a picture frame souvenir from him and his daily workwear. The off-white and romantic feeling of pressed flower souvenir decided overall mood and the language of fabric for the collection. The fabric also was inspired and sponsored by the prestigious Japanese ribbon company Mokuba. And the overall silhouette, detail and attitude comes from the blue-collar workwear and outdoor attire that also symbolizes the designer’s father in her childhood memory. The collection is constantly contrasting and balancing between femininity verses masculinity, also decorativeness verses practical functionality. The experiment started from deconstructing ready-made practical menswear, such as a military jacket. The designer studied the language of workwear and outdoor-wear by understanding practicality and functionality of the design details. Then 3D collaged with, perhaps, contrasting and rather decorative lace ribbons and luxury silk fabric ribbons. The designer challenge the luxury and fragile fabric ribbons by coating them with industrial used chemical like polyurethane. The chemical added off-white to the ribbons and stiffen them as well. The stiffened ribbon was used for garment construction for functional purpose as well as maintaining the decorative character. Also constructing functional-wear like hunting jacket with soft fabric required extra support in garment construction and more hand-sewing that naturally inspired couture like ribbon shoulder pads for such menswear silhouette. These merge of contrasting elements were the most enjoyable study for the designer. The practical details were carefully chose to become decorative yet functional. The stitch detail of padded military jacket inspired surface detail of a dress, and the mechanism to attach/ detach the lining which is usually placed inside became decorative surface detail, as well as still serving the function. Overall, this experimental collection help the designer discover her place between femininity verses masculinity, also decorativeness verses practical functionality.

NOCTURNE

Nocturne was inspired by the designer’s personal experience of going skinny-dipping in the middle of the night while still living in Australia. Visual references to that night including the swimming pool in her friend’s backyard surrounded by nature and the infinite darkness of the forest as well as modern architecture were crucial in developing the collection. The collection is entitled Nocturne, referring to a musical composition inspired by or evocative of the night. This collection addresses composition and harmony between the human body, nature and architecture. Throughout the design process the designer reflected upon the spontaneity and innocence of being 17 years old. Faced with the challenges of becoming a responsible adult in the competitive atmosphere of New York City, she fondly remembers this carefree time in her life and thus found inspiration in her memories from that time.

The setting of the night was re-created via collaged images instead of actual photographs. It was the designer’s decision to mimic Impressionist painters of the 19th century who continuously captured moments by hand with their brushes despite of the increasing popularity of cameras and photographic accuracy. The hand collaged images; especially the architectural straight lines and angles inspired uniquely constructed fundamental garments.

The designer experimented with the scale and proportion of the fundamental bodice pattern in order to create tops, vests and dresses. A distinctive T-shaped dart carries throughout the collection replacing the typical V-shaped darts on garment slopers. Once familiar with altering garment slopers in an architectural way to make them more linear the designer was able to come up with distinctive constructions for skirts, pants, and outerwear pieces as well.

The reflection of the surroundings on the surface of the water at night inspired the print placement. The vivid yet carefully chosen colors in the range of red, blue, green and brown with black and white created a rhythmic quality in the collection. The prints also influenced the construction of the garments, for instance in some garments seam placement is dictated by the continuous panels of the prints. The designer engineered every minute detail of the garments and even came up with original shapes for facings in order to support the unusual construction. It is important to note that the innovative garment details in this collection are both decorative and functional.

The gentle movement on the surface of the water and the dry weather in Australia inspired the contrasting choice of fabrics. The shine on the surfaces of the silk double-faced duchess satin, satin, silk wool, and the back of charmeuse were used to express the reflections and movement of the water’s surface at night. The matt finish of the cotton twill, wool super 160, silk faille and cashmere were used to express the dryness of the air. The fabrics were often doubled for added rigidity and to support the architectural silhouette of the garments. Multiple layers of satin-faced silk organza and cotton organdy were also used to support the silhouette.

Overall, experimentation with structure, print and fabric combinations resulted in the creation of unique garments with original details. The colorful prints harmoniously interacted with the angular garment construction and the natural curves of the body. The process of constructing new fundamental garment blocks allowed the designer to create innumerable garments in her signature angular style. The designer views her unique garment blocks as a representation of her personal identity. Faced with various challenges and situations, as she becomes an adult, she must play different roles but her true identity and spontaneous nature shines through in any situation. Much like creating new garments from blocks, she refers back to her fundamental roots and utilizes them for support in any situation.

BIO

- Born in South Korea in 1989

- Grew up learning ballet, foreign language (English, Japanese, Chinese), piano, running, swimming, fine art

- Found passion in fine art since the age of 9 (water color, graphic design, pencil drawing, sculpting)

- Also had a huge passion for Mathematics. Was huge academic nerd.

- Best friend died during exam block at the age of 13. My parents doubted intense Korean education

- Moved to Australia at 15 seeking different education style (freedom of expression, less stress) lived with Australian host family in Brisbane

- Realized talent in fine art during high school but also interested in culture around fashion design

- Still thought was going to become a doctor because advanced academic achievement and interest in biology.

- Few months before high school graduation, got into a car accident. Fatal damaged. Hospitalized. Realized hospital wasn’t the place I want to spend a lot of time.

- Only applied for Parsons the New School of design because at the time I was fascinated by Marc Jacobs

- Got accepted and moved to New York in 2009.

- Struggled between cultural difference in relaxed and friendly Brisbane, Australia and fast paced and career driven New York.

- Took summer course in CSM in 2010. Found interested in conceptual design. Still very fascinated with the culture surrounding fashion. Art, music, people.

- Took a class at Parsons with jKf. Challenging yet breathe of fresh air. Reminded of CSM summer course where fashion was appreciated in wearable expression of one’s idea, art form.

- Took jKf’s senior thesis class. Challenged. Created a womenswear collection inspired by skinny dipping.

- Refused to take any fashion reference. Had the hardest time being creative in the most original way 1. Created my own fundamental block. 2. Print focused collection. Print placement inspiration: when I went skinny dipping at night the surface of water became reflective, reflected whatever was surrounding the swimming pool. So when I was swimming in it I felt like I was wearing whatever was surrounding the swimming pool. So printed panel of a garment was seamless and wrapped around the body to mimic organic seamless movement in the water.

- After BFA thesis, I panicked because my collection wasn’t as well accomplished. I didn’t feel my study was completed. Felt there was more.

- Started MFA the year of BFA graduation in 2013.

- Took a gap year after 2014 spring for inspiration. Best decision. The pause of time allowed me to study fashion, the historical fashion reference. New appreciation of fashion designs from the past.

- Travelled in Europe and Asia for a year

- Came back for last year of MFA 2015 Fall.

- Finishing Unisex suit collection made out of Tulle fabric to highlight ‘the in between’ in people. How everyone has masculin and femininine sides in them. How anyone can feel confident on the outside and vulnerable inside.

- The biggest inspirations were my ex boyfriend who was the most successful and talented architect who deeply struggled inside with his insecurity, on the other hand my mother who was staying home mum who is a petit woman but who is the strongest in problem solving and taking care of family.

- Bringing back my huge passion for being original in 1. Combination of suit (symbol of masculinity, james bond) and tulle (symbol of femininity, ballerina, wedding gown). 2. Color exposure. More than 2D printing color is being exposed in 3D during the play of difference in numbers of layers for functionality.

- Biggest proud point: learning tailoring and became flexible between menswear and womenswear.

- Still old school way of learning from the very basic so I’m strong and flexible in advanced complex level of work. Learnt tailoring step by step.

- During BFA assisted fashion show producer for 4 years. Learned about fashion world, have a great big picture of the industry.

- Interned and Freelancing at Calvin Klein at the moment. Learning American fashion design, businesses.

- Future. I’m skilled and educated in fashion design. Still hugely interested in culture around fashion. Definitely positive I won’t be satisfied with staying in office job. Concept development and discovering newest thing are something that tickles my balls. Not sure yet. But I will be happiest doing a combination of those two.